PHEWWWWW……….. In Morocco we have ways of keeping cool......

With temperatures in the UK currently running in the mid/high 30’s a holiday in a warm and sunny destination such as Morocco is probably quite low on your forward planning agenda. That’s understandable, but as you know it’s [the weather] unlikely to last and places for our 2016 tours are already VERY LIMITED.

Since our last blog entry was published just a few weeks ago we now find that the last remaining places for 2015 have GONE……

So…….If a tour of MOROCCO is on your “Wish List” a FEW available places on our 2016 tour dates remain ....... 

IT’S A GAME OF THRONES……….

Morocco is well known as the set-location for more than a few major film and TV features. Not many know that a number of scenes for the epic television series of Games of Thrones were filmed in Morocco……….particularly in Season 3 where Ait Ben Haddou, Essaouira, and Ouarzazate were used for a number of scenes.

Game of Thrones is attracting thousands of tourists/fans to the locations where the sequences were filmed. Tours are also available in most of these filming locations……..Better still, join one of our tours and visit for FREE!

Essaouira – Astapor

In the series, Essaouira stands in for the fictional city of Astapor. The windy city features in the Season 3 finale, with its cliff wall providing a backdrop for one of the series’ scenes.

Ouarzazate – Pentos

Morocco’s Hollywood, Ouarzazate, has hosted many international films over the years, such as Gladiator and Babel. It is now used in Game of Thrones. The enigmatic city was used as the port of Pentos, where character Daenerys Targaryen lives in exile in the beginning of the series.

Ait Ben Haddou – Yunkai and Pentos

Ait Ben Haddou provides the backdrop for the cities of Yunkai and Pentos in Season 3, where the majority of Daenerys Targaryen’s scenes are set. The fortified city provided the setting for Daenerys’ battle with the Second Sons and another set of slaves for her to set free.

So if you are a “Thrones” fan or a “Film-Buff” there are more than a few locations we visit during various tours……and most look even better in real-life!

THE BIG Mac GETS EVEN BIGGER……….

 I am not going to “Knock” the franchise……I actually visit their locations both in Morocco and here in Southern Spain ……Yes, I do buy a burger and not just sit outside connected to their WiFi. Not only that, Jimmy [My Dog] loves their Cheeseburgers and a lick of a Mac-flurry tub. Trust me, as much as I love Tagines there are only so many a person can take which make a Big Mac somewhat appealing!

As well as the regular Mac-Menu the Moroccan version also includes MacArabia, Big n Tasty and some great salads ………… All are halal of course.

Visit an outlet at almost any time during the day and you will be surprised how popular they are, and not just with the young, judging by the number of families present it seems like it’s the new place to go for an evening out.

The world’s largest fast food chain will strengthen its presence in the kingdom. The American company will open 15 new restaurants in the next three years. The news was announced by Idriss El Alami, Managing director of McDonald’s, following the signing of an agreement with the National Agency for Promotion of Employment and Skills (ANAPEC), through the agreement with ANAPEC McDonald’s aims to recruit future employees for its new restaurants. The American company wants to create an additional 900 new jobs in three years.

It’s worth considering that McDonald’s are not silly and will only open branches and operate where there is a demand…….it’s not compulsory to visit !!!!!

The fact is that McDonald’s has been an active franchise in Morocco since 1992 and is by far the most popular international fast food restaurant in the kingdom. The chain already owns 34 stores throughout the country and employs nearly 3,000 people. The company recorded revenues of MAD 864.4 million in 2013. It was followed by Pizza Hut with MAD 157.5 million, and the leading chicken chain KFC with MAD 104.6 million.

FISH OUT OF WATER………..

Mist nets for harvesting water from fog have been around for a while and now the technology has come to Morocco. The results are impressive and have changed the lives of the inhabitants of five villages in the southwest of the country, who no longer have to travel several kilometres each day to fetch water.

At 1,225 meters above sea level, on the mountain overlooking Boutmezguida, five villages in the region of Sidi Ifni have installed forty huge nets to take advantage of fog. A fog fence or fog collector is an apparatus for collecting liquid water from fog, using a fine mesh or array of parallel wires. They trap the water droplets, which are then processed, mixed with well water and transported via pipelines to the villagers.

"In a region with semi-arid climate, having water by opening a simple tap is a revolution," says Aissa Derhem, president of the association Dar Si Hmad for Development, Education and Culture. A Douar Id Achour, one of five communities served, women and children previously lost four hours a day on average to make round trips to retrieve well water. "I filled two 20 litre four times in the day. But these 160 litres were sufficient not even us, because we have cattle! "says Massouda Boukhalfa, 47.
"Reaping the fog", has been used for more than twenty years in Chile, in the Andes. Developed by the NGO Fog Quest, which has already tested prototypes in several countries (Guatemala, Peru, Namibia, in particular), this is the first use in North Africa.

"Morocco has a lot of fog due to three factors: the presence of an anticyclone, the Azores, a cold sea current and the obstacle represented by the mountain," says Derhem. "It's environmentally friendly and it helps preserve the water table in the region, which we were emptying."

The Dar If Hmad Association now wants to equip the surrounding villages and replace existing nets with new models capable of withstanding winds of 120 km /h.

The nets were built in Morocco with the help of a German foundation.

Symbolically, the water flow in Morocco began for the first time on March 21, World Water Day. Since then 92 homes and nearly 400 people have received running water to their homes.


MOROCCAN BAILEYS…….

It’s Ramadan and I know some of my friends over in Morocco will be breaking the fast in various ways with the not so humble Date……… This is a great refreshing and energetic drink I picked-up on my travels………

15 large pitted Medjool dates, chopped.
1 cup raw almonds, blanched (and brown skin removed).
4 - 5 cups of milk (to taste).
2 tablespoons of orange flower water.
1/2 teaspoon of genuine vanilla essence.
Small pinch of salt.
1/2 tsp cinnamon.
1/2 teaspoon of ground nutmeg.

Blend until frothy and smooth. Leave in refrigerator for a couple of hours or, if you are desperate, serve with ice cubes. You can of course vary the ingredients and proportions to fine tune to your own taste. For example add an extra hit add a chopped ripe banana, mango or apple.

For a really extra hit do what Debbie does……. And a healthy dollop of Cointreau or Bacardi ………… Trust me; it tastes much better than it looks!

CHECK OUT THE OYSTERS………………

Oulidia, on Morocco's Atlantic coastline, is famous for its oysters. It also has a reputation as one of the cleanest, most family friendly seaside towns in the country. And it is almost impossible to avoid oysters when visiting Oulidia. Not only are they on the menu of every restaurant, but cruise the waterfront and a dozen oyster salesmen will appear, shuck the oysters and pass them through the car window.

In fact if you have rented an apartment, it is likely that a fishmonger on a scooter will appear each morning at your door with reasonably priced fish. They will also hunt out particular fish or prawns for you and deliver them the following day.

There are a number of good restaurants such as the Issa Blanca, and Ostrea II.  The Ostrea II is a well-known stop for tourists and their oysters were delicious but expensive. However, their avocado and prawn salad was bland and based on frozen rather than fresh seafood.

For ambiance, price and an extensive menu you can't go past the L'initiale.  The Paella Royale for two is a real treat and packed with fresh seafood. Their oysters were also considerably cheaper than the Ostrea II and Issa Blanca.  L'initiale also serves a low priced and delicious breakfast.

In recent years Oulidia has undergone a face-lift and a great deal of development. Villas and apartments have sprung up, which now cover most of the hillside facing the lagoon, but unlike some other Moroccan seaside towns there has been a conscious effort to keep new buildings low rise. Their style is in sympathy with the original Art Deco and Modernist beach houses, which line the streets adjacent to the beaches.

While the town is relatively quiet for much of the year, the holiday season following Ramadan sees the town packed with visitors. At this time, booking an apartment in advance is recommended. For those without a booking, locals waving sets of keys are happy to show you apartments for short term rent.

Oulidia is also home to a wide range of birds and ornithologists will find many different species in the wetlands and surrounding areas. Taking a boat ride around the lagoon is also a way of getting close up to the cormorants, falcons, herons and wading birds of the region.

One of the most pleasing developments in Oulidia is the culture of civic pride in the cleanliness of the town and its beaches. Every morning sees teams of workers scouring the dunes and beaches collecting rubbish.  There are rubbish bins everywhere, which are regularly emptied. It is wonderful to see that, unlike at many Moroccan beaches, visitors actively collect their rubbish and deposit it in the bins.

Local boat operator, Hamid, complains that much of the plastic rubbish washed up on the Oulidia beaches comes from other places. "They all need to clean up like we do," he said. Oulidia is one of 23 beaches in Morocco that have been awarded the "Blue Flag" environmental designation.

There are plenty of amenities for beach lovers, ranging from small paddle boats through to dune buggies which, though noisy, are restricted to an outlying area, away from the family beaches around the lagoon. Intrusive jet-skis are also thankfully prohibited at the main beaches.

For fishing enthusiasts, rock fishing is very popular; though caution needs to be taken as the occasional large waves can be dangerous.

Navigation tip: while all the local signs say "Oulidia", many GPS maps have the spelling "Loulidia".

A PROMPT WITH SOME INTERESTING FEATURES ........

JUST A FEW MYTHS ABOUT MOROCCO……….

Throughout the world, non-Moroccans have formed opinions about Moroccans, some are misguided viewpoints and others are somewhat more accurate. Have you ever wondered what the world thinks about Moroccans? Here are the top 10 myths:

1. Moroccans are nomads roaming the desert on camels

FICTION. To a certain extent, a journey to the south of Morocco will take you to panoramic views of the sand dunes in the well-known Sahara desert. Yet, that only pertains to the southern regions like Zagora and Merzouga, where you can camel trek over the dunes and witness nature’s wonders and the locals’ way of life. It is indeed an experience that is well worth the effort and attracts people from all over the world.

2. Moroccans live in a desert oasis surrounded by palm trees

FICTION. Again, the southern part of the nation is what drives foreigners to paint Morocco with a single brush and think it is just a sandy exotic country with no industrial foundation. Though part of this stereotype is legitimate, one must realize that industrial cities like Casablanca, which is the largest city in the Maghreb and is also one of the largest and most economically and demographically important cities in Africa.  Indeed, leading Moroccan companies and international corporations have their headquarters and facilities in Morocco. That aside I think most are surprised at what and Oasis actually is…...visit the Draa or Ziz and be stunned!

3. Moroccans are polygamists

FICTION. Religion plays an important role in this stereotype. Owing to recent legal restrictions imposed by the government of Morocco and western influences, polygamous marriage is practically nonexistent in Morocco nowadays. According to various reports from visitors, Morocco is actually said to be one of the least accepting of polygamy in the Muslim world. OK, depending on the banter and fun-chat between yourselves and say a Souk trader you may be offered the position as an additional wife within the household…….but it is all fun and banter……unless of course…….. 

4. All Moroccan Women Wear the Hijab

Due to the fact that it is one of the most liberal/westernized country in the Arab world, dressing modestly is the norm in almost all parts of the country to avoid attracting attention. In big cities, seeing someone wearing the hijab is as common as not seeing it. Although in rural areas it is more common. In general, whether you are wearing the hijab or not, you are you have the legal freedom to make that choice. Part of wearing the hijab is fitting into the mold of traditional customs and as a sign of respect and faith. Moroccans coexist peacefully even if they don’t share the same perspective surrounding the hijab.

5. Moroccans always wear traditional clothes

FICTION. Morocco is a country well known for its flamboyant outfits and its fascinating heritage. It is rich in traditions, culture, history, and religion. These factors affect the way Moroccans dress, but only to a certain extent. For example, many sophisticated or foreign-educated Moroccan women have adopted European fashion styles and have opted out of the conservative clothes in urban cities. Of course, during special events, traditional clothes such as the caftan or djellaba are prevalent and are an important aspect of the culture. Although it is a Muslim-majority country, “western” women are not expected to dress like traditional native Moroccan women, as people in the capital and other major towns such as Marrakech are used to foreigners, and are therefore likely to be more liberal and more tolerant of western clothing.

6. Morocco is a patriarchal society

FICTION. There seems to be a common misconception that Morocco is a patriarchal society due to the fact that it is a Muslim-majority country. Recent socio-economic developments and rapidly changing lifestyles have shaken the foundations of a traditionally patriarchic society and led to a rise in matriarchal power. Gender gaps have severely decreased and gender roles have been redefined. Women’s financial autonomy has rearranged the Moroccan social scene due to the fact that women are now as independent and have as many rights as men, stripping men of their historical superiority. It is true that there are many things that this society needs to work on in terms of completely eliminating male dominance, but these immense changes taking place in Moroccan society recently are a big step toward achieving the goal.

7. Moroccans Can’t Speak Arabic

Moroccan Arabic (Darija) is based off of classical Arabic but was altered due to French, Spanish and English influences. Though it is somewhat different from other dialects, most Moroccans understand and speak conventional Arabic as it is of course widely taught in public schools.

8. Morocco is an unsafe Arab country

FICTION. The Arab world is often labeled as violent and unsafe without acknowledging that there are regions that are far from conflicts and war. To this day, Morocco retains a stable political environment and is varied geographically, from the tourist-friendly resorts on the Atlantic coast to the exotic medinas in the interior cities. The recent peaceful protests in Rabat and Casablanca that was part of the Arab Spring did not inhibit or deter the safety of the nation as a whole. Morocco was recently and independently voted one of the most friendly and welcoming counties in the World to visit.

9. Morocco is a poor country

FICTION. Morocco is defined as a developing country that has capitalized on low-cost labor to build a diverse, profitable market. Recent years showed impressive economic growth despite of the European economic slowdown in 2012. The new infrastructure improvements are most visibly illustrated by a new port and free trade zone near Tangier which are improving Morocco’s global competitiveness. Although still engaged in the process of decreasing the rural poverty rate, Morocco remains the top destination for foreign investors in the Maghreb region. As a motorhome owner, driving around the nation, you will be surprised at the high standard of road condition as well as re-construction and the motorway network.

10. Moroccans are racists

FICTION. Morocco is a melting pot of ethnic groups that include Berbers, Sub-Saharan Africans, Europeans, and many others. There is a lot of diversity and tourism in the kingdom, and hospitality plays a major role in the culture. It is an essential element to our culture to be warm and welcoming to foreigners. For example, a commonly held belief is that a stranger would be fed and taken care of with the rationale that that same person offering the hospitality may have the same needs one day. It is said that one of the best ways to dive into the Moroccan culture is to strike up a conversation with the person sitting next to you at a local café. A simple conversation could lead to a lifelong friendship after you leave Morocco.

SHOW ME THE WAY TO GO HOME……….

Spain will begin the operation of this years "Strait Crossing" known as “Paso del Estrecho operación”, dedicated to Moroccans travellers returning home. This year it is expected that nearly 2.5 million people and a little over 600,000 vehicles will travel across the Mediterranean.

This operation was the subject of a recent meeting between the Spanish and Moroccan authorities. The aim was to ensure the safety of tourists and fluidity of road traffic and shipping. The traffic is expected to build up from June 15th when many Moroccans leave during Ramadan while others arrive to spend the Holy month with their families.

Ramadan and Eid will have a considerable impact on travel in Morocco. This year Ramadan coincides with the annual “Strait Crossing” and as it approaches it is expected that there will be a massive increase in traffic moving backwards and forwards from Spain.

It is worth noting that the actual dates are defined by lunar sightings and are not confirmed until very late. Dates for Ramadan and Eid in Morocco in 2015: Ramadan: 18th June - 17th July. Eid Al Fitr: 17th July and Eid Al Adha: 24th September No matter how well organised the operations are it is normal to expect delays during peak periods………….Rather, expect chaos!

 VANISHING FORESTS………..

Morocco’s prized cedar trees are being depleted. The Cedrus atlantica covers a large area of the Middle Atlas in North Africa. However, the 134,000 hectares of forest is not thriving like it used to.

The wood and sawdust from the Moroccan cedar tree is highly valued. Loggers are illegally cutting down ancient trees and selling the wood on the black market. Cedar wood is used to make cabinets and oils. In addition to human predators, the Moroccan cedar also has natural predators, which are becoming increasingly threatening. Monkeys that live in the forests are changing their eating habits due to climatic changes. They normally eat plants and insects but recently they’ve been eating the bark and branches on the trees for calcium, which damages the trees.

Droughts are also affecting the cedar’s ability to survive. Water shortages are causing deforestation. The community that lives around this forest are making efforts to decrease the damage to the trees, but life in this area is difficult. Morocco is attempting to give its cedar tree the “endangered species” label in order to protect it. For now cattle grazing is being limited to minimize damage to the forest and forests are being patrolled for illegal loggers.

Overall, rise in temperature, droughts, and flooding are the true threats to the cedar tree population.

 HUFF AND PUFF………….

According to the National Alliance fight against drugs cited by the newspaper Al Massae, seven million Moroccans are smokers, including 500,000 children. And, according to the aThese figures are an opportunity to recall that the anti-smoking law dates from 1995 is still not enforced. The law bans smoking in public places (transport, hospitals, administrative offices ...). In case of infringement, smokers are liable to a fine of 100 dirhams.

Since 2008 this prohibition even extended to cafes, bars and restaurants over 50 m². The law also prohibits the sale of cigarettes to minors, forcing tobacconists to request an ID to the client.

Petitions asking the Department of Health to enforce the law are regularly launched without any effect. According to figures from the World Health Organization, every year tobacco kills more than five million people worldwide - more than HIV / AIDS, tuberculosis and malaria combined. Also according to the same organization, passive smoking is responsible for 600,000 premature deaths per year, of which a large proportion of children (31%) and this number is rising.

 AND FINALLY……………

A really good video……The Kingdom of Morocco This is a link to a BBC documentary on Morocco I stumbled across……..well worth a look if you are thinking of visiting Morocco or have already been and feel a bit nostalgic…… Either way it is an interesting program.    

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_S4vkN7PqEA

SUMMER ISSUE ..... HOT NEWS .....

TIME JUST FLIES BY…..

It’s hard to believe that we are now already into our summer break before returning to Morocco for the September – December schedule ……. As I say, time just flies by…..

But in reality we find we are already heavily into our 2016 booking season where we find that more than half of next year’s [2016] tours are already fully-booked, with very limited places remaining on those that are left.

Please note that tours dates showing "FULLY BOOKED" [Standby only]” mean just that i.e. they are already fully booked. However for any number of reasons and circumstances clients sometimes switch dates or may even have to cancel their tour, so you can reserve a place by going on a “Standby” list for a particular tour date. Your “reserved-standby” booking will of course be later allocated on a “First-Come-First-Booked” basis. OR, if you have a specific date in mind contact the office to see if there has been a change on the listings since publication.

For example…..As shown on our last [April] Blog listing both of our all new 40 Plus day tours were fully booked, but we now have a number of places [3] that have become available ……..

It’s also worth noting that at times we find ourselves heading off to Morocco on unscheduled trips…… if able clients can join us on very short notice. We are just waiting for specific dates of a wedding [Fatima at Meski] which we will not miss and there is the birth of A’Hammed’s [Tour Assistant] second child that we would like to celebrate with him…..then there’s the Imilchil Wedding Festival that we are planning to attend.

LATEST 2015 AVAILABILITY……………………….. YES, THIS YEAR!

Since the last blog entry was published we find that there are now ONLY THREE vehicle places remaining for the rest of 2015…….these are on the OCTOBER and NOVEMBER tours, if interested contact the office.

MEMORIES ARE MADE OF THIS…….

One of the better short videos of Morocco we have come across…….For those who have travelled on tour with us before you should recognize more than a few faces and locations.

http://www.moroccoworldnews.com/2015/02/152778/breathtaking-fantastic-brazilian-video-morocco-2/

WHEN IN ROME………

Always a favorite with its informal woodland location, campfire into the night, shepherd for company and a nearby Berber village…. It’s what motor-homing should be about. You won’t find this hidden gem by yourself, unless you spot the hidden track, and if you do you will probably be moved-on by the “Ranger”…… But there is more, much more. 
 

Warm afternoon breezes blow the rich scent of earth and olive trees across the fertile plains of the Saiss Valley every summer, as they have for thousands of years. On its journey between the Atlas and the Atlantic, the heated air brushes past the rolling hills and down the narrow lanes of the holy town of Moulay Idriss nestled at the base of Mount Zerhoun standing sentinel over the valley below.

 Alongside the elevated P7014 road just outside town, one may spy the glint of sunshine reflecting off a collection of crumbling white columns only a few kilometers below. These simple ruins belie a complex past stretching centuries into antiquity and beyond and are the physical remains of a history both rich and varied.

One of the earliest known names for this site was Oualili, the local Amazigh name for the oleander flowers that grow wild on the plateau between the Oued Fertassa and Oued Khoumane upon which the ruins sit. Artifacts uncovered at the site from the late-seventh-century Umayyad conquest of the Maghreb refer to the town as Walila, and later sources label it as “Ksar Faraoun”…….the Castle of the Pharaohs. However, it is the region’s indomitable conquerors, the Romans, whose distorted name for the site…..Volubulis ….that most commonly remains with us to this day.

However, the Romans were by no means the first inhabitants of the site. Across the millennia, the Amazigh, who themselves have lived in the region for thousands of years, have been visited alternately by conquerors of Carthaginian and Phoenician origins as far back as the third century bce, and the warlord leaders of neighboring Maghrebi tribes before that. Indeed, the archaeological record indicates that the fertile land and strategic position of the site have drawn people to its location as far back as the Neolithic period some ten thousand years ago.

The Carthaginians and Phoenicians were skilled at utilizing the entrenched class stratification of the local peoples to their strategic advantage, but it is the Romans who raised this skill to an imperial, if insidious, fine art. Many local rulers near Oualili were able to keep the iron talons of the empire of the Seven Hills along the Tiber at bay, brave leaders like the Numidian King Jugurtha. After the mighty Jugurtha was captured by the Roman Republic’s General Sulla in 106 bce and starved to death in Rome’s Tullianum prison over the next two years, the ruling class of the Amazigh kingdom of Mauritania quickly saw the advantages of alliance with the invaders.

Perhaps one of the most noteworthy of these local rulers was the Numidian prince Juba II. This son of the Numdian king Juba I was born in Africa but, for reasons of imperial strategy and state-making, raised amid the cool marble and whispering fountains of Emperor Augustus’s personal palace. Indeed, the young Juba claimed to remember the trumpet blasts of cavalry horns and war elephants and the scent of incense and sweat on the day he was paraded as a boy by praetorian guards before the throngs of eager plebs assembled to witness Julius Caesar’s African triumph in Rome.

Juba, perhaps with little choice, eagerly took to the culture of his pseudo-captors. The young prince embraced with equal enthusiasm the bride his benefactor, Emperor Augustus, selected for him. As fate had it, his bride was also an orphan of empires much like himself, a beautiful young woman by the name of Silene or, more formerly, Cleopatra Selenus— the daughter of the ill-fated lovers Cleopatra VII Philopator of Egypt and Roman general Marcus Antonius, who chose death rather than life under the yoke of Augustus, who annihilated their meager force during the Battle of Actium in 30 bce.

Five years later Emperor Augustus perceived correctly that his young pupil and vassal was ready to be delivered back unto to the land of his birth in North Africa, and there he returned with his wife to rule as king of Mauritania at the capital of Caesarea in what is now Algeria. It was under Cleopatra and Juba’s reign in the region that Volubulis thrived from the production of olive oil for the empire yielded from the many groves that covered the valley.

The Roman town would continue to expand in both dividends and infrastructure in the ensuing years of Juba’s reign, but fate would not serve Juba’s son and heir as kindly. In 40 Ce after a parade in Rome honoring the deceased King Juba’s son, Ptolemy, his cousin, the maniacal Emperor Caligula, had the young Mauritanian despot murdered.

The independent Amazigh kingdom was thus no more, and the revolt that followed led by Ptolemy’s freed slave was viciously crushed. Mauritania was divided in twain, with Mauritania Caesariensis in the east with its capital at Caesarea, and Mauritania Tingitana to the west, with its capital at Tingi, or Tangiers. Volubulis in Mauritania Tingitana, well-versed in the power of the most powerful of Latin tribes, remained allied with Rome, and thus allowed to continue as a successful and productive Roman municipal. Under the protection of five forts (and a savvy alliance with the neighboring Amazigh Baquates tribe) Volubulis flourished for decades.

The reign of Emperor Marcus Aurelius in the second century saw sturdy city walls erected, as well as eight monumental gates flanked by towers. The town at the crossroads of Roman and Berber power further expanded under the emperor (and native of North Africa) Septimius Severus and his heirs, when a new monumental center was established in the town. The growth of Volubulis continued under Emperor Macrinus in the third century with the construction of the civil basilica, reorganized Forum, and Capitoline temple, still partially intact today. The similarly intact Arch of Triumph is dated to Emperor Caracalla, who granted the town’s residents Roman citizenship and removed the burden of taxation.

The town began to decline economically in 285 under Diocletian, when the Roman army, feeling the stress of an aging empire, pulled out of the southern reaches of Mauritania Tingitana. Thereafter the town would become home to a mixture of peoples of Amazigh, Italianate, Romano-Berber, and Levantine Jewish and Christian descent.

It was during this period in the middle centuries of the first millennium Ce that the name of Volubulis, the city of oleander flowers, was returned to Walila, and it was here in 788 that Moulay Idriss I, Arab protector of the Prophet Muhammed’s great-great-grandson, Husayn, fled from the Abbasids, bringing Islam to and taking refuge among the town’s multiethnic populace. Before his assassination a few years later, Idriss would go on to found the town that carries his name using portions of the ruins of the decaying Roman town. Moulay Idriss would also found a city along the Jawhar River that took its name from the old Berber word for the Middle Atlas, Fazaz. Idriss called it Madinat Fas……today, we know it as Fez.

Vanished from time are the horizon-spanning states of Carthage, Phoenicia, and Rome. But as the setting sun of late spring dapples the fields beside a winding road below a holy town on the plains of Saiss with blood orange light, the marble knees may buckle but the grand crown of history remains held high amid the ruins of a town with many times but one remarkable past.

I could go on and on, but if you join one of our tours [The Classic] you can visit the remains of Volubulis with a personal guide, amid the blooming oleander flowers at sunrise, and discover its past for yourself. 

HOW SIMPLE IS THIS …………. A PERFECT SUMMER SIDE DISH…..

●2 aubergines

●4 tbsps olive oil for brushing the shells plus 2 tbsps for frying

● Salt and pepper

●1 onion, peeled and finely diced

●1 red pepper, diced

●2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

●4 tbsps flaked almonds

●8 soft dried apricots, cut into quarters

●1 tbsp finely chopped parsley

●1 tbsp finely chopped coriander plus 2 sprigs for decoration

●2 tsps rose harissa paste mixed with 2 tbsps olive oil

Preheat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/425°F/gas mark 7.

Slice the aubergines lengthwise and, using the tip of a sharp knife, score a small border around the inside edge of the flesh. Using a spoon, scoop out the center of each aubergine and roughly chop the flesh. Brush the aubergine shells inside and out with the olive oil then lightly season the flesh sides with the salt and pepper. Cover these loosely with foil and bake them for 20-30 minutes or until just tender but not collapsed.

While these are baking, pan-fry the aubergine flesh in the olive oil on a medium heat for 8-10 minutes or until it is tender and cooked. Add the onion, red pepper and garlic then continue to fry for another 6-8 minutes to cook everything through. Add the almonds and apricots then cook for 2 minutes. Add the chopped herbs and ½ of the harissa oil then stir them through. 

Remove the aubergine shells from the oven when ready then reduce the temperature to 200°C/180°C fan/400°F/gas mark 6.  Spoon the filling into the aubergine shells and return to the oven to heat through for 15-20 minutes.

Serve drizzled with the remaining harissa oil and coriander sprigs.

Handy hint: You could mix a little cooked couscous into the filling if you’d like.

THERE’S GOLD IN THEM THERE FIELDS…………

Back in 2011 Saida Mellouki and Vincent Lieron cultivated the first Crocus sativus in the village of Serghina. This area in the Middle Eastern Atlas (Province of Fez-Boulemane) located at 1500 m altitude is now saffron territory, producing the highest grade of saffron - a product as precious as gold.

The mauve flower of the saffron crocus (Crocus sativus) is a precious commodity. The tiny threads of the stigmas are the saffron

The 2014 autumn harvest in Morocco was another good crop and Saida Mellouki produced kilos of this precious spice. Much of the saffron is sold into Europe, but thankfully, some is available in Fez.

Taliouine, between Ouarzazate and Agadir, is Morocco's capital of saffron and in ancient times women collected the stigma from each wild flower, a long and painstaking process, found growing on the mountainside. In more recent times, prior to the 1960's, the Jews of Taliouine helped finance saffron production and trade.

These days there are several hundred hectares of flowers grown on light chalky hillsides at an altitude of between 1200 and 2000 meters (4000 - 6500 feet). Each September the bulbs are planted and come into flower towards the end of October when the harvesting takes place. Harvesting is no easy job, the delicate procedure taking between fifteen and twenty days and only during the early hours of the morning before the flower heads open to the sun.

The stigmas are carefully removed, dried and stored in waterproof sacks, well away from direct light in order to preserve the quality and flavour. It is easier to understand the high price of saffron once you realise that it takes on average 100,000 flowers to produce a single kilogram of saffron.

Good saffron is readily available in Moroccan souks, but you should always buy the whole threads rather than powdered saffron which is quick to lose its flavour. The Serghina saffron comes in the distinctive small jars which are well sealed to preserve the saffron flavour.

ROMEO AND JULIET, MOROCCAN STYLE………

The Berber village of Imilchil, and the lakes of Tisly and Isli, are located in the region of the High Atlas of Morocco, where a myriad array of tribal cultures have mixed for centuries. 

This is a land of many myths, one of which is the annual Imilchil Festival which celebrates the marriage of couples who they have only just met on the day of this ceremony. This ritual celebration is marked by its traditional tribal heritage. Each woman participant in this ceremony is asked to dress in the customary wardrobe to show men that she’s either divorced, never married, or widowed.

To the tribes of Ait Hdidou, the story of Romeo and Juliet is not only considered a mythical tragedy, but also a story of history of two actual lovers from the region’s past. Indeed, it is said that the Tisly and Isli lakes are filled by the tears of the ancient tribal lovers. These star-crossed lovers were victims of the unfair decision made by their families to reject their proposed marriage. It is in this combination of myth and history that the annual ceremony in Imilchil began to take shape as a symbol of love, giving all the right to choose one’s life partner in order to avoid the pain caused by hopeless love and rapture.

I was curious for a while, and decided to investigate deeper to uncover the hidden story of the women of the village and to discover if this festival gave men more choice in the arrangement than the women being selected. I was surprised by the local population stating that men do not have the power I presupposed, but must only make a first step using a sign that I will discuss later.

Many books and articles have been written on the women of North Africa without ethical considerations, which is very important. One book that discusses this topic is Amazigh Arts: Women Shaping Berber Identity by Cynthia Becker (2006). She addresses the topic of the strong Berber women of Ait Khabbash in Morocco. These women are known for their skill in weaving carpets and working in wool and illustrates the ability of these women to produce and work hard as active participants in Amazigh culture, while also producing a snapshot of the other tasks they perform to survive the trying conditions of the local weather.

Becker’s descriptions of the wool, the textile trade, and the steps needed for the local women to attain high quality creations from natural material relies on her visual metaphors drawn from within the Ait Kharbash culture, a culture with many similarities to other Berber tribes in concepts of gender identity.

Another book that discusses a similar topic is The Magical Life of Berber Women in Kabylia by Makilam. Adding to Becker’s discussion on the process of wool shearing and spinning preparations by women of this region, it also contains a very important discussion of body language, an entirely oral tradition that has never been written down, as most women of the region are illiterate.

This is partly related to the topic of this article, because the affirmation to a man’s proposal made by the admired woman in the celebration is based on her body signs and language.

During my inquiry into the topic of women in Imilchil and how they are representative of gender, power, and marriage in the region as evidenced in the annual festival organized in the village, I've attempted to consider other factors that encourage local women to participate in this marriage ceremony. One of many factors I've included in my observations has been the “spinster phenomenon,” which is common in Morocco.

This phenomenon represents an issue and cultural context within Morocco. Across the entire Kingdom, women who remain single in our society are believed to bring shame to their families. Also, the isolated location of the village and its lack of schools and possibility to meet potential mates represent a role in organizing the Imilchil Festival.

Imilchil is such a complex place with such a rich and diverse people that conclusions about power and gender in the region may yield fascinating results.

AND FINALLY………..

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